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  • 石一寧:晴雨大化

    晴雨大化

     石一寧(壯族)


    車在大化縣城紅河南路的一家賓館前停下。


    這是下午四點的光景,斜陽猶驕,天宇蔚藍,大地熱氣灼人。


    踏上大化的土地,心里油然涌起一種親切感。前年,曾來過大化,此番是舊地重游。


    同行的同事們就不一樣了,一色北方人,第一次到大化,下車后一邊好奇地張望大化縣城的街道,一邊感受著南方的濕熱天氣。


    六月天,全國各地哪兒不是熱氣蒸騰?不過北方是干熱,常伴著些風,且早晚溫差大,不似南方這般熱中又潮。大化眼下的濕熱,在南方卻也平常。


    大化的美,在紅水河“百里畫廊”。


    翌晨,從縣城乘車約十五分鐘到達板堆碼頭,登上“百里畫廊”的游船。望望天,多云,太陽不見蹤影,有南方夏日里難得的陰涼。


    游船緩緩駛離碼頭。大家走到甲板或登上船頂觀覽。


    “百里畫廊”是大化水電站大壩攔水形成的峽谷河段。只見兩岸綠樹豐茂,碧草萋萋。喀斯特地貌的山巒,在濃云籠罩下或昂首聳立,或沉身低伏,如列如陣,如舞如蹈,氣象萬千。河面映展著兩岸植被和山巒的倒影,黛綠而靜謐。

      

    紅水河是珠江水系干流西江的上游,流貫貴州和廣西。紅水河發源于云南曲靖馬雄山,稱南盤江,流至貴州望謨縣與北盤江會合,始稱紅水河。在廣西,紅水河流經樂業、天峨、南丹、東蘭、大化等十多個縣區。

      

    歷史上,紅水河的水是紅的。紅水河的得名,乃因流經紅色砂貝巖層,水色紅褐。在天峨縣境,紅水河甚至曾被稱為烏泥河。改革開放,也改變了紅水河的顏貌。大化水電站1983年開始蓄水發電,它只是南盤江紅水河水電基地十級開發的第六個梯級電站。大化水電站上接的巖灘水電站,同在大化縣境內,1992年開始發電。而上游的天峨縣,2007年又建起了作為國家實施西部大開發和“西電東送”的標志性工程,僅次于三峽水電站的中國第二、廣西最大的龍灘水電站。南盤江紅水河這些電站的興建,重寫了紅水河的歷史,紅水河的紅水,被層層沉淀,變為一條蜿蜒在南方大地的綠色長河。

      

    船在“百里畫廊”中暢行,水面與兩岸美景,不斷迎面撲來。船過雞公山、月牙山……聽著東道主的介紹,覺得這些山水的名字起得倒也貼切和有內涵。岸邊山坡上,不時有綠樹掩映的人家。有人家的岸邊,停靠著一兩只帶艙的小船,想必是出行以及打魚之用。岸坡上一個小村莊,分布著一棟棟二三層的小樓,墻面一體灰白色,并蓋有斜面樓頂,頗為別致。問東道主朋友,得知此村乃貢川鄉龍勒村。此村依山傍水,風景如畫,在政府的幫助下,村民如今住宿條件已有不少改善。

      

    大化的美,又在七百弄。

      

    來到七百弄國家地質公園,已是午后。天已陰轉晴,云開日出,熱浪又滾滾襲來。然而,來到號稱“天下第一弄”的甘房弄觀景臺,四望連綿不絕的山峰,俯瞰八百米下的甘房弄,一行人被震撼了,不顧酷熱高溫,紛紛用鏡頭捕捉這一天下奇觀。

      

    七百弄分布有世界上又陡又深的巖溶峰叢地貌,與云南路南石林、桂林陽朔峰林并列為世界三種典型的巖溶地貌類型。七百弄高峰叢是世界上峰叢最密集地區,峰頂海拔九百至一千米,海拔八百米以上石峰有數千座。這里的巖溶洼地是世界上最密最深的深洼地區,七百弄的峰叢像一個個大漏斗,圈出洼地兩千五百多處。高峰叢深洼地、巖溶谷地、巖溶洞穴、巖溶峽谷、水體景觀、地下暗河、地質剖面、生物化石……組成了這里的壯麗景觀。

      

    大化的美,還在“綠珠長湖”。

      

    “綠珠長湖”是當地人對巖灘庫區的稱譽。巖灘水電站的興建,蓄水形成了五十六平方公里的庫區湖和長達十六公里的峽谷水庫。觀覽“綠珠長湖”之時,天降大雨。大家坐在船艙里,透過艙窗欣賞雨中的湖光山色,別有一番情趣。只見天空亂云奔飛,兩岸山頭云遮霧繞,隱約變幻。一座座孤島不時冒出湖面,撞入眼簾。雨不停地擊打著湖水,濺起朵朵水花,湖面一片蒼茫。雨不停地擊打著船,沖刷著艙窗,叩擊著船上游人的心弦。

      

    到達生態民族新城時,恰好雨歇。

      

    生態民族新城風格別致的幢幢小樓大廈,讓人感覺仿佛是到了某個大城市的商住新區。這里是大化縣易地扶貧搬遷與城鎮化結合的試點工程,占地面積三千多畝,總投資約五十億元,全部建成將可容納六萬人,目前已搬遷安置貧困人口兩萬多。同時,亦有提供教師和公務員的團購房、公租房和面向所有居民的商品房。

      

    站在生態民族新城規劃模型沙盤前,大家對這座新城全部建成時的壯觀前景甚為振奮。貧困戶安置到這里,不僅住上現代化設施齊全的樓房,每人還有一筆補助金。然而,故土難離,農民對土地和家園永遠懷著深情的眷戀,尤其是老一輩農民,更不易被城鎮生活所打動。不少年輕人即使搬來了,也面臨著就業謀生等問題。毗鄰的廣東等經濟發達地區,對這里的很多農民工更有吸引力。如何讓這個新城生發出更多生機和吸引力,值得努力地探索下去。

      

    不過我想,即使有這些隱憂,生態民族新城依然展現著前行的步履和身姿。今天七百弄弄底里的村民們,在廣東等地打工的大化農民工們,已經不是昨天的他們。他們守著弄底的破房舊屋,他們睡著工廠的簡陋床鋪,不再是別無選擇,而恰恰是他們做出了選擇,他們有了選擇的能力。無論多苦多累,那個不太遠的地方,還有著他們的一個值得自豪的新家。

      

    “縱浪大化中,不喜亦不懼。”東晉陶淵明詩里的“大化”一詞,乃指大自然。大化人與自然的和諧相處,似乎也早已養成不喜不懼的心性。


    刊于《人民日報》2018年10月10日 


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