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  • 郭雪波:黃昏 企鵝們蹣跚歸來

    黃昏 企鵝們蹣跚歸來

    郭雪波(蒙古族)

     

    天漸漸暗下來了。海邊風很大。

     

    從海豹巖下來時,西邊的晚霞還在照耀海面如燃燒的火線,被風掀起的波濤如滾蕩的火球在海面上跳來跳去,而那些追逐浪濤的海鷗更像是一只只火中精靈,穿梭在大海和天際之間,勇敢地戲謔啼嘯追逐,編織著夢幻。

     

    而此刻,暗紅的晚霞把最后一抹紫色的光線留在海面上,如鋪了一層柔軟的毛茸茸的絲綢毯子,似乎是撫慰著始終咆哮不已無法安靜的浪潮兒,太陽是徹底的看不見了,悄悄地躲到大海那邊,歇息去了。

     

    沙灘很柔軟,有些潮濕,我們一排排坐下來。人群黑壓壓的,井然有序,無一絲喧嘩,海水離我們腳邊三四十米遠處輕輕舔舐沙灘后又退回去,一些隨潮上岸來的小螃蟹在那里蠕動。

     

    我們開始等待。靜靜地等待。

     

    發現左前方的海上空,不知何時懸掛出半輪弦月來,似乎是從云層里剛露出,抑或是剛才一直被還在的陽光霞光遮掩著無法顯現,而此刻,它已褪去羞答答的樣子,大膽灑下來一片銀白色的光澤。于是乎,渾沌的海面一時改變了顏色,近處的被月亮反射出一條光暈,明亮溫柔了許多,如是一幅寧靜的油畫般美妙;而遠處月光照不到的大海深處,則朦朦朧朧,混混沌沌,似乎依然沉浸在波濤的洶涌之中。尤其令我驚奇的是,那輪弦月下方不遠處,還閃爍著一顆很大的星星,金紅金紅,正朝我們一閃一閃地眨著眼睛。啊,那是金星,我差點失聲叫起來。每當太陽西落后,最早出現西南天際的一顆金色星體。我從老家草原出來,也算游歷過不少地方,可從未見到過如此碩大而挨得這么近的金星。難怪當年被天體學家們蠱惑的英女王,不斷派出探險科考的海軍船隊前來這南太平洋,尋找那傳說中金星凌日的最佳觀測點,然后意外發現了新西蘭和澳洲。那會兒,大不列顛日不落帝國,在堅船利炮督導下,真算是國運昌盛啊。

     

    此時此刻,在南太平洋這座企鵝小島上,我們雖未瞧見金星凌日奇觀,卻意外遭遇金星凌月美景,也算是一次人生幸事了。

     

    海浪一排排地涌上岸來,漲潮一直在持續。

     

    仍不見一只企鵝上岸。后來的游客依然如潮,一排排被安排坐在沙灘靠后的斜坡長凳上。拿喇叭的管理員告訴大家,昨晚有五百六十八只企鵝上岸,讓大家猜猜今晚會有多少只上岸,猜怎么知道的這么精確。

     

    聽到這數字,不知為何,我心中有一絲失落感。才五百多只企鵝,這么多人,上千上萬,黑壓壓擠滿潮濕的海灘苦苦等候,怎么才這么點企鵝?澳洲墨爾本企鵝島聞名遐邇,原先以為,會有成千上萬的企鵝大軍呼拉拉一片涌上海灘來,壯觀無比。想起前幾日,奧克蘭的鳥島上,曾見數千數萬的海鳥白壓壓一片落滿海灘和海岸線山崖上,蔚為壯觀,形成無比神奇的奇景。海鳥們一窩窩的,新出生的小雛崽正在練飛,站立在懸崖上抖抖忽忽,迎著習習的海風不停地扇動著尚未豐滿的翅膀,據說每天要這樣扇翅膀數千次,不干別的。母鳥在一側守護,公鳥出去捕魚蝦,回來后把魚蝦從嗉子里反吐給小雛嗓子里,然后公鳥休息,母鳥再去覓食。等這些上千上萬的小海鳥翅膀練硬了,羽翼豐滿了,它們就該遷徙了,奔向澳洲南方更溫暖的某海島上去過冬。

     

    海風漸漸小了,海浪卻一排排的涌來退去,暗淡的月光和燈光下我們目不轉睛地盯著前邊。管理員再次解惑般輕聲告知,企鵝島的企鵝種類叫小企鵝,體積比南極企鵝小很多,在企鵝島上共有兩萬來只小企鵝生活,每只企鵝都帶有特制的編號金屬片,但不一定每天每只都要下海。小企鵝是一夫一妻制,每天下海捕獵的是夫妻中的一個,輪流勞動,經過一天或兩天大海上艱苦的勞作,把胃嗉子填滿之后就趁著傍晚漲潮登上岸來,回窩之后再把胃里魚蝦反哺給配偶。

     

    這個情景,令人心動。夫妻相攜艱苦勞動,相濡以沫,相互喂哺著度過一生,這是多么感人的生存方式。企鵝的世界,有著更純樸的愛和無私的相互付出,聽著讓人心里有種說不出的溫暖。

     

    此時有人悄悄說了一句,上來了,上來了,瞧那邊!

     

    人們騷動起來,紛紛伸頭張望。

     

    我老眼昏花,依稀瞅見左前方從涌動的潮水中真的冒出來幾只企鵝,跌跌撞撞,站立在潮頭,可是很快一陣大潮涌來又把它們給吞沒了。人們一片嘆息。好在沒過一會兒,它們幾個又從潮水中站立起來,并且蹣跚著上岸了。昏暗中,它們警惕地觀察四周,靜立片刻,然后向海岸土崖方向梗著脖子狂奔,可惜,徒有狂奔的姿態而已。由于天生的弱點,上帝沒有賜給它們膝關節只能直立著行走,即便狂奔也是左右一搖一擺的蹣跚,有的如球跌倒,爬起再跑,憨態可掬,令人愛憐而捧腹。

     

    接著,在我們的正前方,也冒出一批來了。這撥兒有十多只,而且似乎訓練有素,上岸后排成一行,井然有序地朝岸上巢穴而去。好比一排打靶歸來的戰士,個個挺著鼓鼓囊囊的胸腹,搖搖晃晃悄然而行,行走路線也十分熟悉。企鵝的窩兒,均分布在離沙灘數十米遠的沿海山坡山巖上,有的是自然洞穴,有些則是人工搭的草巢。

     

    當然,每個窩里都有一只等候它們歸來的伴侶,也許正嗷嗷待哺,也許攜帶幼崽,都急切期盼著出獵者收獲豐滿地安全歸來。

     

    這時,不少人開始悄悄起身,向后方小步跑走。

    老伴兒從后排過來拍我肩膀,示意。我這才想起,也起身撤離。

     

    幾分鐘后,我們靜靜站立在那條山坡半高棧道上等候,好多人也在這里擠站在欄桿一側,向下瞧望。兩米下方的一條小徑,是先期歸來的小企鵝回窩時的必經之路,在這里我們可從近距離觀察它們。

     

    大家屏聲靜氣,不敢出聲。管理者一再提醒,不能拍照,企鵝視力很弱,閃光燈會毀壞它們眼睛。大約五分鐘后,第一批上岸的企鵝,緩緩走來了,依舊那么步履蹣跚一搖一晃。從兩米高處細看,在朦朦朧朧的光線中,企鵝們顯得十分疲倦,搖晃著走路看似很吃力,看著更令人心疼,誰知它們在大海上都經歷過些什么。到了這里,它們是各個獨自走路,前后已無序,有的楚楚動人,有的從容不迫,有的心急不小心摔倒,爬起來再走。然后漸漸都消失在棧道那頭,各自奔向各自的家。當然,家里都有個伴侶在為它們暖著窩。

     

    呆望著企鵝們消失的黑蒙蒙山坡,我一時有些悵然若失。

     

    美妙的時刻總是短暫。滿足了好奇心,思緒依然在持續,似乎想考問什么。

     

    或許,在人類肉眼看不見的地方,冥冥中,真的有上帝或天神也在關注著我們人類吧,就像我們關注企鵝一樣。我忍不住抬頭,仰望那漫漫夜空。

     

    哦,那顆金星,依然在西南上空閃爍,似乎變得更大更明亮了。

     

    它也正在忙著趕路。明早黎明時,它將在東方地平線出現,迎接從黑夜里醒來的地球人。于是,我的心里好像溫暖了許多。

     

    離開企鵝島時,海灘那邊依然人影綽綽。

     

    企鵝們的回歸,尚未結束。

     

    我和老伴兒——兩只老企鵝,倒是該回窩了。我們歸家的路,更遠。

     

    我們將迎著金星飛,在遙遠的東方和它相遇。

     

    人生很多事,相約不如偶遇美妙。

     

    刊于《光明日報》2017721

     


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